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craftgrrlFor any thread-crafters, I got this in my email today (x-posted in my journal & ![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-community.gif)
craftgrrl):
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 02:24:17 -0500
From: "Tatdlace" < tatdlace#gagechek.com >
Subject: [etatters] Everything you ever wanted to know about Starch
Hi all,
Some time ago we had a discussion about the best method for safely
stiffening textiles. There are a lot of things you can use with varying
results some are washable and some are permanent. Some stiffeners will
yellow with age and shouldn't be used on heirloom projects. Sugar starch
works well, but if you live where there are a lot of hungry insects, sugar
will contribute to the destruction of your lace.
I contacted the Royal Ontario Museum and spoke to their textile
conservator to get information on the best and safest way of stiffening lace
for long tem usage. I was told that the museum uses a watered down version
of the paste that they make for binding ancient books.
The details come from the Canadian Conservation Institute Notes and
include instructions for both cleaning and stiffening. The starch that is
mentioned is wheat starch but corn starch or rice starch may also be used.
Ordinary starch such as you would use for making gravy can be used, the only
difference is that it contains a few more impurities. If you aren't
stiffening museum pieces, it won't matter.
Sharon Briggs
CLEANING
Anionic Detergent
If you decide to wash a textile, the next step is to choose a
suitable detergent. Most detergents available, including those for delicate
fabrics are not suitable because they conatin perfumes, colorants, and
whiteners. Even after washing and rinsing, many of these additives remain
and may harm the fibres.
Detergents for washing historic textiles should have a neutral pH
(i.e., they should be neither acidic nor alkaline), and should clean well at
low temperatures. Old stains that have oxidized are very difficult and often
impossible to remove.
One product that meets these conservation specifications is W.A.
Paste (Canpac 645). This is an anionic detergent containing sodium dodecyl
sulphate (sodium lauryl sulfate).
W.A. Paste is the same as Orvus, produced by Proctor and Gamble in
the United States and available through drugstores in some provinces.
When a bath is prepared for a historic textile, the W.A. Paste must
be diluted. Dissolve 5 ml of W.A. Paste in each litre of water (one teaspoon
in each quart of water). If the paste appears to separate, stir before
using. Mix carefully to ensure that the detergent is well dissolved: the
solution will be slightly cloudy.
After washing with W.A. Paste, the detergent must be thoroughly
rinsed. Further reading Canadian Conservation Institute . Washing of
Non-Coloured Textiles. CCI Notes 13/7 Ottawa: Canadian Conservation
Institute, 1986.
WHEAT STARCH PASTE- This reference refers to book bindings but Esther
suggests that since it has proven stable in that area, it is not likely to
discolour textiles. Remember that paper used to be manufactured from cloth
rags. Corn or rice starch may also be used but like the wheat starch you
want something that's pure. Commercially prepared starches should NOT be
used as they have perfumes and additives that will, in the long term damage
fibres.
Many museums use commercially available adhesives to repair and
hinge paper artifacts. Unfortunately, many of these adhesives are chemically
unstable and, in time can disfigure the artifacts with which they are in
contact.
Wheat starch makes a smooth adhesive that remains tacky, even
whendilutedto a thin consistency. Once dry it produces a strong, reliable
bond.
Wheat starch paste has been used for centuries in the Orient, and
has proved to be a suitable adhesive for direct, long-term application to
paper.
AYTEX-P is an unmodified, highly purified wheat starch. It contains
approximately 87% to 91% starch, 9% to 13% moisture, and less than 1% fibre,
protein, and mineral matter from the wheat germ. Other sources of purified,
food grade wheat starch are available and may be more accessible.
Use distilled water to avoid introducing contaminants into the
paste.
Equipment and Supplies:
-distilled water
-wheat starch
-double boiler (glass or stainless steel) or saucepan (domestic type, 2 to 3
litre capacity)
-pyrex graduated glass beaker (500 ml or 600 ml capacity)
-plastic or metal spoon
-heat source (bench-top single burner or domestic stove)
-storage container (glass, plastic, or ceramic with a non-metallic lid)
-seive or strainer (fine, non-metallic mesh)
-scales or balance (optional)
Preparing the Wheat Starch
Weigh out 30 grams of starch powder on the scales. If scales are not
available, you may estimate that 30 grams will measure to the line marking
50 ml on a graduated beaker.
Put the 30 grams of starch powder into a glass or plastic container.
Using a graduted beaker, measure 300 ml of distilled water.
Gradually pour 50 ml of this water into the container holding the starch
powder, stirring continuously until all the lumps have dissolved and the
mixture is smooth. Cover the mixture and let stand.
Cooking the Wheat Starch
Paste can be prepared in adouble boiler or by using the following
procedure.Pour the remaining 250 ml of watere into a beaker. Set this beaker
in a pan containing enough water so that the beaker is surrounded but does
not float or tip. Allow the water in the beaker to come to a boil. Stir the
starch/water mixture, and pour it into the boiling water in the beaker,
approximately 25 ml at a time, stirring continuously as it thickens. When
all the starch/water mixture has been added, continue heating and stirring
for another 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the beaker containing the paste, and
allow it to cool.
Thinning the Paste - (for starching)
When the paste reaches room temperature, it will have a thickened
appreciably. If the paste is too thick for a particular procedure, thin it
by adding distilled water and stirring vigorously. Thinning at this point
usually creates lumps, which can be removed by forcing the paste through a
seive. Subsequent dilutions can be acheived simply by adding water and
stirring: lumps should not recur.
Storage
Store paste in a container made of glass, ceramic, or plastic that
has a non-metallic lid and that has been sterilized with boiling water. At
room temperature, the paste will last at least three days; if refrigerated,
it will last for at least seven days. Stored paste must be put through a
seive and thinned before it is used. paste should be discarded as soon as it
separates or sours.
Conservation
Bachman, Konstanze (1992). Conservation Concerns. A guide for collectors and
curators. New York and Washington, DC: Cooper-Hewitt Museum and Smithsonian
Institution.
Bogle, Michael (1975). Textile Conservation Centre notes, Nos 1-15. North
Andove, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum.
Finch, Karen & Greta Putnam (1985). The care and preservationof textiles.
London: Batsford.
Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild (1988). Textile conservation and research. Bern:
Schriftender abegg-Stiftung.
Landi, Sheila (1992). The textile conservation manual. London: Butterworths.
Leene, J. E. (1972). Textile conservation. Washington, DC: Smithsonian
Institution & The International Institute for Conservation of Historical and
Artistic Works.
Textile Conservation Newsletter. P.O. Box 37089, 3332 Mc Carthy Road,
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1V 0W9
CCI Notes can be ordered from the Canadian Conservation Institute. 1030
Innes Road, Ottawa, Ontario, Canad K1A 0C8
craftgrrl):Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 02:24:17 -0500
From: "Tatdlace" < tatdlace#gagechek.com >
Subject: [etatters] Everything you ever wanted to know about Starch
Hi all,
Some time ago we had a discussion about the best method for safely
stiffening textiles. There are a lot of things you can use with varying
results some are washable and some are permanent. Some stiffeners will
yellow with age and shouldn't be used on heirloom projects. Sugar starch
works well, but if you live where there are a lot of hungry insects, sugar
will contribute to the destruction of your lace.
I contacted the Royal Ontario Museum and spoke to their textile
conservator to get information on the best and safest way of stiffening lace
for long tem usage. I was told that the museum uses a watered down version
of the paste that they make for binding ancient books.
The details come from the Canadian Conservation Institute Notes and
include instructions for both cleaning and stiffening. The starch that is
mentioned is wheat starch but corn starch or rice starch may also be used.
Ordinary starch such as you would use for making gravy can be used, the only
difference is that it contains a few more impurities. If you aren't
stiffening museum pieces, it won't matter.
Sharon Briggs
CLEANING
Anionic Detergent
If you decide to wash a textile, the next step is to choose a
suitable detergent. Most detergents available, including those for delicate
fabrics are not suitable because they conatin perfumes, colorants, and
whiteners. Even after washing and rinsing, many of these additives remain
and may harm the fibres.
Detergents for washing historic textiles should have a neutral pH
(i.e., they should be neither acidic nor alkaline), and should clean well at
low temperatures. Old stains that have oxidized are very difficult and often
impossible to remove.
One product that meets these conservation specifications is W.A.
Paste (Canpac 645). This is an anionic detergent containing sodium dodecyl
sulphate (sodium lauryl sulfate).
W.A. Paste is the same as Orvus, produced by Proctor and Gamble in
the United States and available through drugstores in some provinces.
When a bath is prepared for a historic textile, the W.A. Paste must
be diluted. Dissolve 5 ml of W.A. Paste in each litre of water (one teaspoon
in each quart of water). If the paste appears to separate, stir before
using. Mix carefully to ensure that the detergent is well dissolved: the
solution will be slightly cloudy.
After washing with W.A. Paste, the detergent must be thoroughly
rinsed. Further reading Canadian Conservation Institute . Washing of
Non-Coloured Textiles. CCI Notes 13/7 Ottawa: Canadian Conservation
Institute, 1986.
WHEAT STARCH PASTE- This reference refers to book bindings but Esther
suggests that since it has proven stable in that area, it is not likely to
discolour textiles. Remember that paper used to be manufactured from cloth
rags. Corn or rice starch may also be used but like the wheat starch you
want something that's pure. Commercially prepared starches should NOT be
used as they have perfumes and additives that will, in the long term damage
fibres.
Many museums use commercially available adhesives to repair and
hinge paper artifacts. Unfortunately, many of these adhesives are chemically
unstable and, in time can disfigure the artifacts with which they are in
contact.
Wheat starch makes a smooth adhesive that remains tacky, even
whendilutedto a thin consistency. Once dry it produces a strong, reliable
bond.
Wheat starch paste has been used for centuries in the Orient, and
has proved to be a suitable adhesive for direct, long-term application to
paper.
AYTEX-P is an unmodified, highly purified wheat starch. It contains
approximately 87% to 91% starch, 9% to 13% moisture, and less than 1% fibre,
protein, and mineral matter from the wheat germ. Other sources of purified,
food grade wheat starch are available and may be more accessible.
Use distilled water to avoid introducing contaminants into the
paste.
Equipment and Supplies:
-distilled water
-wheat starch
-double boiler (glass or stainless steel) or saucepan (domestic type, 2 to 3
litre capacity)
-pyrex graduated glass beaker (500 ml or 600 ml capacity)
-plastic or metal spoon
-heat source (bench-top single burner or domestic stove)
-storage container (glass, plastic, or ceramic with a non-metallic lid)
-seive or strainer (fine, non-metallic mesh)
-scales or balance (optional)
Preparing the Wheat Starch
Weigh out 30 grams of starch powder on the scales. If scales are not
available, you may estimate that 30 grams will measure to the line marking
50 ml on a graduated beaker.
Put the 30 grams of starch powder into a glass or plastic container.
Using a graduted beaker, measure 300 ml of distilled water.
Gradually pour 50 ml of this water into the container holding the starch
powder, stirring continuously until all the lumps have dissolved and the
mixture is smooth. Cover the mixture and let stand.
Cooking the Wheat Starch
Paste can be prepared in adouble boiler or by using the following
procedure.Pour the remaining 250 ml of watere into a beaker. Set this beaker
in a pan containing enough water so that the beaker is surrounded but does
not float or tip. Allow the water in the beaker to come to a boil. Stir the
starch/water mixture, and pour it into the boiling water in the beaker,
approximately 25 ml at a time, stirring continuously as it thickens. When
all the starch/water mixture has been added, continue heating and stirring
for another 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the beaker containing the paste, and
allow it to cool.
Thinning the Paste - (for starching)
When the paste reaches room temperature, it will have a thickened
appreciably. If the paste is too thick for a particular procedure, thin it
by adding distilled water and stirring vigorously. Thinning at this point
usually creates lumps, which can be removed by forcing the paste through a
seive. Subsequent dilutions can be acheived simply by adding water and
stirring: lumps should not recur.
Storage
Store paste in a container made of glass, ceramic, or plastic that
has a non-metallic lid and that has been sterilized with boiling water. At
room temperature, the paste will last at least three days; if refrigerated,
it will last for at least seven days. Stored paste must be put through a
seive and thinned before it is used. paste should be discarded as soon as it
separates or sours.
Conservation
Bachman, Konstanze (1992). Conservation Concerns. A guide for collectors and
curators. New York and Washington, DC: Cooper-Hewitt Museum and Smithsonian
Institution.
Bogle, Michael (1975). Textile Conservation Centre notes, Nos 1-15. North
Andove, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum.
Finch, Karen & Greta Putnam (1985). The care and preservationof textiles.
London: Batsford.
Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild (1988). Textile conservation and research. Bern:
Schriftender abegg-Stiftung.
Landi, Sheila (1992). The textile conservation manual. London: Butterworths.
Leene, J. E. (1972). Textile conservation. Washington, DC: Smithsonian
Institution & The International Institute for Conservation of Historical and
Artistic Works.
Textile Conservation Newsletter. P.O. Box 37089, 3332 Mc Carthy Road,
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1V 0W9
CCI Notes can be ordered from the Canadian Conservation Institute. 1030
Innes Road, Ottawa, Ontario, Canad K1A 0C8
